Trail Surface: Dirt roads; smooth single-track with rocks and sand
Hike: The first half of this segment follows a wide, flat road at the bottom of Platte Canyon. Only authorized vehicles are allowed, but there can still be a lot of activity along its entire length, both recreational, and associated with the dam at the end of the road. However, it is not uncommon to see wildlife nearby, which along with some nice views, make the miles go by fairly quickly. Occasionally, the canyon will be closed without notice, usually due to flooding or to prevent conflicts with large animals, so be sure to check the Denver Water website in advance. Once on the trail, a series of large elevation changes will more than compensate for the relative ease of the beginning.
Bike: Except for the road, and a few sections in the middle where the trail is steep or follows a creek bed, the majority of this segment is almost perfect single-track. Ridden one way, the elevation changes are spread out nicely, but riding in both directions might be overly ambitious. Instead, consider the Platte Canyon and South Platte rides, which start at either end.
Trail Surface: Dirt roads; smooth single-track with rocks and sand
Hike: Shortly after the trail climbs out of sight of the river at the beginning, it enters a large exposed area that has been devastated by fire and erosion. There is some cover along the way, but the heat radiated by the ground and rocks, combined with the lack of moisture, can make a typical summer day almost unbearable. While there is a chance of encountering a few small streams a short distance into the next segment, there are no reliable sources of water for almost twenty miles. Sadly, the forest is pretty much gone forever, but it is slowly being replaced by new growth that will eventually obscure the remains of the fire, while still leaving the previously hidden rock outcroppings visible to decorate the landscape.
Bike: Even with all the sand and heat, the surface and the grades throughout the Top Of The World ride are ideal for mountain biking, making it one of the few segments that can be ridden both ways in one day. Because this is a really bad area to encounter a thunderstorm, spring or fall are probably the best times to go.
Trail Surface: Smooth single-track with rocks and sand
Hike: This segment begins with an overall gradual descent to Buffalo Creek, followed by a series of steeper climbs all the way to the end. The low point is at an elevation that will not be seen until within a few miles of Durango, whereas the average on the whole trail is almost four thousand feet higher. While there may be water thoughout the segment, only the creek can be depended upon at any time of year. Although the trail is mostly off to the side, the first half of the segment passes through an area in which camping is extremely popular.
Bike: The Meadows and Gashouse Gulch rides cover most of this segment, except for a short section in the middle, near Meadows Campground. The main trail was untouched by several fires in the area, so there is always plenty of cover, and enough twisty single-track to fill two days of hard riding. There are a lot of other trails in the area, many of which intersect the main trail, so be extra careful not to take the wrong trail during a teary eyed descent.
Trail Surface: Dirt roads; smooth single-track with rocks and mud
Hike: The long climb from the previous segment continues along an old road to over ten thousand feet, eventually leveling out for almost fifteen miles at the bottom of a straight, soggy valley. While running water will no doubt be encountered now and then, most of it will be found soaking the ground, which in several cases forces the trail away from an impassible section of road, or out of the grass and into the trees. Even though the trail is mostly within the Lost Creek Wilderness, it doesn't seem very remote, and there is an access point in the middle.
Bike: Because the trail enters the wilderness area within two miles, and stays either within it or near the boundary all the way to the end of the segment, and a few miles into the next one, it is essentially off limits to bikes. The enormous detour required here, and at the numerous wilderness areas ahead, are probably more important reasons than the condition of the trail to consider riding and hiking the trail in sections rather than all at once.
Trail Surface: Dirt roads; smooth single-track with rocks and roots
Hike: After so many miles of walking up and down forested mountains, some may find the appearance of the flat, grassy South Park basin near the end of the segment to be an unexpected surprise. While the views are amazing any time of year, those hiking the whole trail will be forced to use their imaginations to transport themselves a few months into the future, when it is blanketed by the bright yellows, oranges, and reds of aspen groves reacting to the onset of winter. Water is available throughout the segment, but not in abundance.
Bike: Even though this segment begins outside the Lost Creek Wilderness area, the trail goes back inside almost immediately. Fortunately, once it comes out again, it stays out, leaving the last two thirds accessible as the Kenosha Pass ride at the end of the next segment. While there will almost certainly be crowds near the pass, and on the heavily worn first few miles of the trail, as long as there isn't an early snow, there is no better time than fall for this ride.
Trail Surface: Paved roads; rocky single-track with roots
Hike: At over thirty miles, this segment is the longest on the trail, and almost ten miles longer than average, but there are multiple access points, most of which are suitable for cars, conveniently spaced out within the segment. There are no long stretches without water, and most sources are reliable throughout the year. Elevation changes are gradual overall, but they are long, adding up to almost fifteen thousand feet of climbing and descending.
Bike: The Georgia Pass, Missouri Gulch, Swan River, and Breckenridge rides are all contained within this segment, which is single-track except for a short distance at the very end. While there are a few steep, rocky, and heavily used sections, they seldom require walking, and even then only for short distances. Huge elevation changes, thunderstorm exposure, and sudden temperature drops at high altitude are important planning considerations when riding these trails separately, but are not difficult to manage when riding in one direction.
Trail Surface: Rocky single-track with sand and grass
Hike: Much of the first half of this segment has been devastated by pine beetles, with a result similar to the burned areas experienced earlier. At higher elevations, the trees are less affected, but treeline comes soon after. The high point of over twelve thousand feet, which is the highest so far, and one that will not be exceeded for hundreds of miles, will immediately be left behind in a plunge to within a thousand feet of the beginning of the segment. Water is available throughout, but is less abundant near the ridge unless the slopes are still covered with melting snow.
Bike: Even though there are some nice trails along and around this segment, few would choose to ride the whole thing on a regular basis. Overall, riding will be much faster than walking, but there are plenty of sections where pushing a bike will require less effort than trying to ride at the same speed. The west side is almost entirely smooth, but too steep for a comfortable uphill ride, making the east side the best place to start. While riding one way, and returning on the bikepath, is a definitely a difficult undertaking, it is not at all unreasonable.
Trail Surface: Rocky roads; rocky single-track with roots
Hike: The first few miles of this segment skirt the very edge of a golf course and crosses most of Copper Mountain's ski runs, on a series of dedicated trails, shared connecting trails, and service roads. Even with the reassurance of regular trail markers, it can be difficult at times to stay on the trail. Once the last ski run is left behind, the trail will drop into a valley and follow a stream for a long climb to over twelve thousand feet. After traversing a treeless slope for three miles, a longer and steeper descent is followed by a gradual climb to the end of the segment.
Bike: An abundance of rocks and roots, along with heavy use, will be the most common cause of a rough ride in the first half of the segment, but the trail improves significantly thereafter. Even though the last eight miles are mostly uphill, and the trail follows an old railroad grade near the end, the second half of the segment is a better overall ride than the first. Because this segment is unusually long, and there are such huge elevation gains in the first half, riding it in both directions will probably require three separate rides.
Trail Surface: Rocky roads; rocky single-track with roots
Hike: Trees, streams, and lakes are the highlights of this segment, with only brief excursions above treeline. Climbs and descents are barely noticeable throughout the first half, which follows a long valley where the elevation rarely strays more than a few hundred feet from that of the starting point. At the end of a valley, a series of short switchbacks take the trail over a steep ridge where the trees thin out briefly and the terrain becomes more rugged. A short descent past a lake in a small valley is followed by a much longer ridge crossing that ends in a large cluster of lakes and a final precipitous descent.
Bike: The Holy Cross Wilderness only encompasses the last half of this segment, but because the only access points are within the first few miles, the only option is to ride to the boundary and back again. While the surface is generally rough, the gentle grade allows a pace much faster than walking.
Trail Surface: Rocky roads; smooth single-track with rocks
Hike: There are two high points above eleven thousand feet in this segment, both of which are surrounded by small grassy areas, but the relatively smooth terrain and abundance of trees along the route give the impression of being much lower. As there is nothing particularly difficult along the way, and plenty of water, a lot of progress can be made at a fast pace and with minimal effort. Mount Massive, which is the second highest peak in the state, is a good side trip for this segment, and the first opportunity so far to climb a fourteener. The summit is only about three thousand feet higher than where the trails intersect, but the physical effects of the higher altitude is dramatic.
Bike: All but the first three miles of this segment are within the Mount Massive Wilderness, but easy access and the relatively good trail surface make riding worthwhile, especially in combination with walking through the wilderness in both directions.
Trail Surface: Rocky roads; smooth single-track with rocks
Hike: With the exception of two relatively short switch-back climbs, this segment is mostly flat or downhill. The longest flat section is in the middle, along more than five miles of dry, exposed trails and roads that lead around a lake. While that route, and another in a valley further south, can be confusing at times, even a wrong turn will usually lead back to the trail. The main route to the summit of the fourteener Mount Elbert, which is the highest peak in Colorado and second highest in the contiguous United States, follows this segment for several miles from the middle before branching off to the west.
Bike: Paved access in the middle, combined with relatively smooth trail conditions, make this segment the most pleasant ride since Breckenridge. The northern half is the better of the two, with fewer rocks and better scenery, particularly in the fall, but both have steep sections on either end.
Trail Surface: Rocky roads; smooth single-track with rocks
Hike: This section is unique in that it begins by following the forested shore of a reservoir for several miles, suddenly climbs and descends three thousand feet, and ends with several more miles of flat terrain. The views are incredible from start to finish, but the second half is particularly breathtaking, especially in the fall when the trail is surrounded by bright yellow aspen groves.
Bike: It is not clear where bikes are allowed on this section, because none of the many access roads or trailheads have the standardized, designated use signs that can be found at most every other trailhead. There are two signs a few hundred feet apart on the north side, where the trail intersects an old road, that first generically prohibits vehicles and then prohibits motor vehicles, but nothing similar at the other end. Whatever the case may be, not many riders even have the capability to do much riding over the pass, because the trail is often too steep or rocky to ride, so it may not matter. The trails at either end are largely smooth single-track however, and definitely worth riding, even if only to provide faster access for a hike up to the pass.
Trail Surface: Dirt roads; smooth single-track with rocks
Hike: Although this section begins inside the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness, getting to the trail is only a short hike from the end of the access road. A recent reroute moved the trail entirely within the wilderness area, and further away from two access roads near the middle, making it and the next section the two most remote trails on the Collegiate West route. The trail climbs gradually to lake Lake Ann, and becomes steeper as it a approaches the first of two passes. The somewhat crudely constructed reroute branches off the trail on the other side of the pass and rejoins the old trail where it begins the final climb to Cottonwood Pass. Both intersections are obvious, but can easily be overlooked if they aren't expected. Water is abundant throughout, and cover is only lacking near the passes.
Bike: Because the trail is inside the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness from beginning to end, bikes are not allowed, but they can be helpful in getting closer to the trail from the two internal access points than is possible by car.
Hike: This section ascends quickly above treeline through a seemingly endless series of switchbacks and stays on exposed ridges and slopes all the way to the abandoned Alpine railroad tunnel, where the trail follows the old railroad grade down the midpoint of the section. There, a recent reroute bypasses the roads of the old route and joins the trail near Hancock Lake. After crossing Chalk Creek Pass, the remainder of the section is almost entirely downhill, over a combination of roads and single-track. Water and cover are far less abundant at the beginning than at the end, and the trail never seems particularly remote.
Bike: Even though there are a lot of places where the trail is too steep and rocky to ride, there are enough roads and recently constructed single-track to make riding, at least parts of this section, much faster than walking. Numerous access roads make it possible to complete the section with a combination of hikes and bike rides with minimal driving.
Start/End Access: Rough roads/Rough roads and trails
Trail Surface: Rocky roads; rocky single-track with roots
Hike: The first three and a half miles of this section is a two thousand foot climb out of a densely forested valley, with new lakes and streams seemingly around every corner. Once above treeline, the trail only dips back down a few times before merging with the main route again in the middle of Segment 15, with very little water available until many miles beyond that point. While there are a lot of intersecting roads in the ski area, the route is usually fairly obvious. A paved ramp, that at first appears to lead to a gondola terminal, leads out of a large parking lot on Monarch Pass.
Bike: The trails throughout this section are well marked as being open to bikes, and there are only a few places where riding is difficult or impossible, usually due to rocks. The trail mostly alternates between roads and smooth single-track, with the most roads being in the ski area, and on either side of Monarch Pass. Even though motorcycles are allowed on the trail beyond the pass, there is actually very little evidence of their presence.
Trail Surface: Rocky roads; smooth single-track with rocks and mud
Hike: Although the trail disappears for a while at the beginning of this segment, where it passes though a campground, it crosses a nearby creek on a bridge that is visible from a distance, so there is no danger of getting lost. Otherwise, the trail is perfect, with plenty of water and fantastic scenery along the way. The over five thousand feet of elevation gain takes place in two stages in the first half of the segment, followed by a long, gradual descent. The fourteeners Mount Columbia and Mount Harvard are both accessible from the same point on the trail, but the route is not widely used or well established.
Bike: Only a few miles at either end of this segment are outside of the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness. Riding the north end might save some time, but bikes are specifically prohibited on the south end between the trailhead and unmarked wilderness boundary.
Trail Surface: Paved and dirt roads; smooth single-track with rocks
Hike: The first six miles of this segment consist of a steep, three thousand foot climb and descent though the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness, over a twelve thousand foot ridge east of the fourteener Mount Yale. The remaining sixteen miles gradually cross a ten thousand foot hump at the base of the fourteener Mount Princeton, with the last five being an unusually long stretch of dirt and paved roads though a small town. Both mountains are accessible from the trail, but not as short excursions. Water is available throughout the segment.
Bike: Unlike the end of the previous segment, which specifically prohibits bikes between the trailhead and the wilderness boundary, this one specifically allows them. Unfortunately, even though the trail is smooth, it is so steep as to be almost unrideable in both directions. The remaining eleven miles of the segment are steep and rocky in places at first, but the trail smooths out long before the roads start.
Trail Surface: Dirt roads; rocky single-track with sand
Hike: The best part of this segment is the view of the Chalk Cliffs during the initial steep climb, or better yet on the way back from a round trip in the evening, when direct sunlight makes the pure white surface more dazzling. At the other end, there are several access points along the trail to the fourteeners Mount Shavano and Tabeguache Peak, which are close enough together that they can both be climbed on the same day with a relatively uncomplicated ten mile hike. Although the terrain around the segment seems as dry as a desert at times, there are reliable streams at fairly regular intervals.
Bike: Twenty miles is only slightly longer than the average segment, but the rapid succession of steep climbs and descents, and a generally rocky surface, make this one difficult to complete in two rides beginning at each end. Fortunately, there are numerous access points that allow breaking it down into more manageable pieces, on roads that are suitable for cars in most cases.
Trail Surface: Rocky roads; rocky single-track with roots
Hike: This segment begins with three miles of dirt road that can accommodate most cars, and continues with a gradually steepening trail along the bottom of a lush valley near a roaring stream. The high point is three thousand feet above the highway at the beginning of the segment, on a ridge at the head of the valley. After a long descent, the trail joins a rough road for a little over a mile, and finally the old railroad grade on Marshall Pass, where there is parking and easy access.
Bike: Even though the much celebrated Monarch Crest Trail follows this segment from its high point all the way to the end, no part of their shared five mile route, which consists of a steep, rocky trail and a rocky road, is particularly noteworthy as a mountain biking trail. Except for the road at the beginning, the first ten miles are actually better in many ways, especially when ridden downhill.
Trail Surface: Rocky roads; rocky single-track with mud and roots
Hike: A combination of roads and trails gradually climb away from Marshall Pass along the Continental Divide to a high point of over eleven thousand feet near Windy Peak. The segment then plunges back down to its low point in a valley below the divide, only to climb almost all the way back up again. The creek in the valley is the only source of water for about ten miles in either direction, and is usually at least trickling all year. Even though the trail generally follows the top of an almost continuous, undulating ridgeline for most of the remainder of the segment, thick forest often completely obstructs the view.
Bike: Except for a few miles of smooth single-track on either end, and the occasional rockless section, this segment is nothing but rocky trails and roads, which is no fun at all on a bike. While riding is faster than walking overall, it still might be necessary walk almost half the time.
Hike: Grassy meadows and the occasional excursion above treeline provide frequent views of the surrounding hills and distant mountain ranges, along a route that stays almost entirely on the undulating crests of forested ridge lines. Though far from populated areas of any kind, numerous easily accessible roads, a highway at the end, and gentle terrain make the segment seem less isolated than it really is. The route is either obvious or well marked at all intersections in the trail, but a map or directions might be necessary to stay on the correct roads, especially towards the end of the segment.
Bike: This segment starts and ends on roads open to any vehicle, with narrower trails that only restrict vehicles by width in the middle. Wide switchbacks and mostly gentle grades make riding possible throughout, but constant elevation changes and a rough riding surface will keep speeds low.
Hike: After so many miles of following ridges and climbing in and out of valleys, the rolling grasslands of this segment will be a welcome change. There will still be a lot of gradual climbs and descents, but the views are unlike anything seen on the trail so far. There are several small streams near the middle of the segment, but beyond that the only reliable water source will be halfway through the next segment. While the roads are inconsistent, the route is not difficult to follow.
Bike: With the exception of the first mile, and a short, rocky trail that connects two roads on opposite sides of a ridge a few miles later, this segment is made up entirely of roads. The first half is still well worth riding though, because the prohibition of all but two wheeled vehicles has allowed the roads to become overgown to the point where they are basically single-track trails. What remains ranges from faint tracks across grass covered rocks, to seemingly random ruts created by off road vehicles, and none of it is enjoyable to ride.
Trail Surface: Rocky roads; smooth single-track with rocks
Hike: This segment leaves behind the seemingly endless miles of roads surrounded by grassy hills and small clumps of trees at its halfway point, and concludes with a gradual descent through a secluded valley next to a boggy stream. Because marked and unmarked roads, all practically identical, lead off in every direction throughout the first half of the segment, it is important to evaluate every intersection to avoid getting lost.
Bike: While only the last three miles of this segment are within the La Garita Wilderness, the four miles of trail leading to the boundary from where the roads end are closed to bikes. Except for a few steep sections, the roads are relatively smooth and easy to ride, but because it is necessary to return by the same route to go around the wilderness, and the scenery is similar to the previous segment, a desire to complete the entire trail is really the only reason to ride it.
Trail Surface: Smooth single-track with rocks, mud, and grass
Hike: This segment is almost entirely within the La Garita Wilderness, and can only be accessed at either end. The drive to the beginning of the segment is on a very long dirt road that goes nowhere else, whereas the other end is a mile away from the closest rough road. The trail climbs gradually through a narrow valley for the first eight miles, and then steepens as it approaches a high point of over twelve thousand feet near San Luis Peak. Significant elevation changes, where the trail crosses a series of valleys and saddles, make the last few miles the most difficult. Interestingly, even though they are still standing, and seem normal from a distance, all of the large pine trees in the area are dead. While their bluish tint provides an unusual contrast when intermingled with aspen, especially in the fall, once they burn or fall over the character of the segment will change significantly.
Bike: Except for the short distance where the trail crosses the access road at the beginning of the segment, bikes are not allowed anywhere on or near the trail until well into the next segment.
Trail Surface: Smooth single-track with rocks and grass
Hike: There are three steep climbs and descents over ridges and down into narrow valleys, which add up to almost five thousand feet of elevation changes, within the first half of this segment. The La Garita Wilderness is left behind and Snow Mesa comes into view on the last ridge, which is the beginning of a long gradual descent. The mesa is nearly flat, and completely treeless, but there are several streams and a small lake where water can be obtained prior to the crossing. Elevations approach thirteen thousand feet on several occasions, and don't drop below eleven thousand feet until the last quarter mile of the segment.
Bike: Only half of this segment is inside the wilderness, but the two miles before the eastern boundary, as well as the mile beyond the western boundary, are mostly too steep and rocky to ride uphill. Even though the elevation makes the four mile ride in each direction across the mesa at unexpectedly difficult, riding is still much faster than walking.
Trail Surface: Rocky roads; rocky single-track with grass
Hike: The first three miles of this segment climbs along a road through thinning forests and wide meadows. A rocky bypass then leads to a slightly confusing intersection, where the previous road joins several others, one of which continues through steadily improving scenery to a well established trail. A short climb to the top of a thirteen thousand foot ridge, followed by a similar descent after three miles of gentle grades, which includes the highest point on the entire trail, completes the segment. Water may be available in small quantities, but should not be considered reliable.
Bike: Contrary to what some guidebooks say, there is no reason not to ride this segment. The roads fairly typical, and not particularly steep, and the few difficult sections of trail are no worse than some whole segments. Many of the trails in the first half of the segment are simply randomly worn paths that shortcut the roads, but even walking on them is preferable to staying on the road. The second half of the segment is almost entirely single-track, with only a few steep sections, most of which can comfortably be ridden downhill.
Trail Surface: Dirt roads; rocky single-track with grass
Hike: There are very few trees anywhere near this segment, and for many miles into the surrounding segments, making it a particularly uncomfortable place to be during bad weather. However, there are no long stretches of trail on peaks and ridges, and the numerous deep folds in the terrain that can provide some semblance of cover are never far away. These same features make the segment one of the most amazing and isolated experiences anywhere on the trail when under cloudless blue skies. Surprisingly, water is available throughout the year at various points along the trail, but not necessarily at the most convenient locations.
Bike: An abundance of rocks, along with sections of trail that are so steep as to present a challenge for both hikers and bikers, will inevitiably require some walking. Relatively smooth climbs will also be made unexpectedly difficult due to the high elevation, which averages nearly thirteen thousand feet, and only dips below twelve thousand feet for a short distance at the beginning.
Trail Surface: Rocky roads; rocky single-track with mud and grass
Hike: Rather than follow ridges and valleys, as has been common so far on the trail, this segment mostly loops around them. There are three fairly significant ridges to cross though, and the highest one is only a few miles from the lowest point on the segment, where the trail loops around a deep valley. The geology in this segment is incredibly diverse, making the views some of the most spectacular that can been seen anywhere on the trail. In addition to numerous stream crossings, there are lakes at either end of the segment, so water is never far away. The trail mingles with a road at the end, which can be confusing at first, but only one turn is critical.
Bike: While the trail is relatively smooth in the eastern half, it becomes rockier in the middle and stays that way for the remainder of the segment. There are steep sections throughout, some of which can be unridable in both directions due to loose rocks, but none are long enough to require extended periods of walking.
Trail Surface: Dirt roads; rocky single-track with roots
Hike: At barely eleven miles, this is the shortest segment on the trail, but the highest point is over a thousand feet higher than the ends, and the elevation change overall is almost six thousand feet. The trail generally stays at treeline, traversing steep slopes almost as often as it follows ridges, with plenty of cover, and at the same time, unlimited views. While there is plenty of water at the beginning of the segment, it will become harder to find past the midpoint, until there none at all. Because the only reliable source in the next segment is at the end, postponing a refill would probably not be a good idea.
Bike: Despite the huge elevation changes, this segment is almost entirely rideable, with only a few steep or rocky sections where it will be necessary to walk uphill, and in a few instances downhill as well. Although there are a lot of roads, most of them have been closed for so long that they have basically become single-tracks with grassy shoulders.
Hike: Except for the last few miles, this segment follows a ridge with steep, grassy slopes to the east, and flatter, forested terrain to the west. The route follows a series of trails, old logging roads, and dirt roads with multiple crossings that can be confusing at times, because it is not always clear whether it will be necessary to follow a road or look for a trail. While there are plenty of expansive views throughout the segment, the highlights are in the second half, where the ridge becomes far more rugged and slowly rises above treeline. The only reliable source of water is from a small lake and its attendant streams near the end of the segment.
Bike: The most important thing to know about this segment is that unlike the first half, with its gradual grades and smooth surfaces, the second half is so steep and rocky in places as to be almost impossible to ride, either up or down. As a result, riding the second half out and back might actually take longer than walking.
Trail Surface: Dirt roads; smooth single-track with rocks
Hike: After nearly five hundred miles of climbing over countless high ridges and saddles, descending nearly a vertical mile is the perfect ending to an epic journey. Even though the trail follows heavily forested slopes and valleys, there is no shortage of amazing views, both near and far. There are several intersections in the second half of the segment, at least one of which requires a turn in the least travelled direction, but all of them are well marked. While there is very little water available at first, it is otherwise always within easy reach.
Bike: The huge elevation loss may make this segment seem like nothing but downhill from beginning to end, but that is definitely not the case. A thirty mile round trip ride from the bottom would probably be more fun than a shorter one way ride from the top, and it wouldn't require such a long drive. Except for some steep and rocky sections near the top, where walking might be unavoidable, the trail is rideable in both directions.
